Prada’s Journey to Kolhapur: A Tale of Acknowledgment, Appreciation & Collaboration.

Prada’s Journey to Kolhapur: A Tale of Acknowledgment, Appreciation & Collaboration

1. From Fashion Show to Kolhapur Streets

In June, luxury fashion house Prada debuted a pair of flat leather sandals at Milan Fashion Week—precisely what Kolhapuri artisans have been crafting for centuries. Although styled simply as “leather sandals”, the striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals sparked uproar in India. Critics cried “cultural appropriation,” pointing out that Prada neither credited the original tradition nor offered attribution

2. Backlash & Legal Action

The public outcry triggered a formal letter from the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), and even a PIL was filed in the Bombay High Court alleging disregard for the GI-tagged heritage of Kolhapuri chappals. Prada responded by acknowledging the design’s Indian inspiration and states that the showcased sandals are still in the design stage, not finalized for production

3. Prada’s Two‑Day Visit (July 15–16)

To mend fences and explore genuine collaboration, a four-member technical team from Prada—led by Paolo Tiveron—visited Kolhapur from 15 to 16 July 2025. Over two immersive days, they toured manufacturing units including LIDCOM, Karakari Leather Works, and artisan clusters in Kagal, and bought seven pairs of genuine Kolhapuri chappals

4. Deep Dive into the Craft

Spending hours at local facilities, the team observed first-hand the painstaking process – noting that over 80% of production is sculpted by hand, with machines playing a minor role. From leather selection to intricate stitching, Prada’s experts studied each detail closely

5. Conversations with Artisans & Authorities

Discussions with MACCIA, district collector Amol Yedge, and local artisans touched on scaling craftsmanship to the global stage and preserving authenticity. Prada also tasked MACCIA with creating a documentary to highlight Kolhapuri techniques and leather variations. The fashion house expressed interest not only in chappals but also local silver jewelry and other handicrafts

6. Crafting a Future Together

Artisans, including Prasad Bhopal Shate of the Kolhapur Footwear Association, are preparing for potential bulk orders and setting up training centres to ensure the next generation carries forward traditional skills. MACCIA President Lalit Gandhi expressed hope that formal deals could be sealed by Prada’s next visit, likely involving corporate and business leadership in August. 

Why This Matters

Aspect	Significance
Cultural Respect	From controversy to conversation—Prada’s engagement signals a shift toward ethical design and honoring source traditions.
Artisan Empowerment	Real collaboration could mean fair compensation, global recognition, and sustainability for local craftspeople.
Geographical Indication	GI status protects cultural property—recognition by a global brand reinforces its value and legal weight.

What Lies Ahead

• Formal Partnerships: Expect MOUs between Prada and artisan associations, potentially featuring co-branded collections.

• Training & Documentation: Plans include artisan training centres and documentary storytelling of traditional processes.

• Broader Craft Involvement: Prada may expand collaborations across silver jewelry, Paithani saris, and tribal art forms

Final Thoughts

What began as apparent design appropriation has evolved into an opportunity: an international brand stepping up to recognise and invest in an age-old craft. If navigated thoughtfully—with respect, credit, and fair exchange—this collaboration could rejuvenate local heritage artisans and spark a new chapter for Kolhapuri chappals on the global runway.